Monday, 17 June 2024

NC500 #4 The North Sea & coast of Scotland


After the excitement of the sea stacks & the windswept coast of Castle Sinclair near Wick, it is just a short drive to the furthest land point on the Isles - the infamous John o' Groats in Caithness, Scottish Highlands. 

We stopped off first at Duncansby Head Lighthouse & sea stacks high on the exposed point of the headland as it juts out in to the North Sea with the Pentland & Moray firth to each side of it. The wind was terrific & it was a struggle to open the car door against it.  The wind whipped around the high point & it tugged at all your coat & hair. I wish I had packed a bobble hat to protect my ears from the wind


The famous stacks were a fair walk in the wind & rain but I still had my preference of the wild coast at Castle Sinclair. 





Then onto John o' Groats to have photos taken at the iconic sign, to walk the harbour wall & visit the touristy shops along the sea front. 








Dunnet Head , some 12 miles south east of Duncansby is acknowledged as the most northernmost point of the Scottish & British mainlands. However, it is in a nature reserve & could certainly not take the tourists who flock to the John o' Groats signs for their picture. We did both & looked out on the cliff walls where seabirds nest. On the blustery day, it was impossible to focus in on anything in particular as it is another very exposed spot. 

It was disappointing that the Castle of Mey was not open on the day - it only opens Wednesday to Friday so I did not get to visit the castle & gardens of the late Queen Mother. 

Our route continued along the beautiful north coast, calling in at beautiful harbours, sandy beaches & coves. They are unexpected & quite beautiful, even on a breezy June day. 


At Dunnet links beach, we wandered along the tide line & I collected some seashells, just something I love to do. I was impressed that we did not see plastic pollution along the pristine sands & it was just glorious to have this part of the beach to ourselves. Heaven is the small things when you clear your mind & refresh your soul. 

We watched the ferry load at Gills Bay,  then along Strathy & Farr beaches, to the  crescent shaped Melvich beach & river mouth in the northwest Sutherland region. Many of the beautiful white sandy beaches are accessed by single track roads & they are far less inhabited.  Rugged cliffs & rocky outcrops are beautiful backdrops to the turquoise waters & white sands. A really beautiful, largely unspoilt part of the trip.

We walked along the harbour at Skerray Bay where a large stone wall protected the small harbour from the elements. The view from the harbour, across the bay was quite lovely.  Some Dutch tourists came along & we chatted.  We had passed on our parking slip to them in John o' Groats & they remembered us.  We chatted as we have visited several of the same places in Southern Africa & I have several lines of Dutch Ancestry. It was an interesting interlude with like minded travellers. 

  

We travelled to Tongue, an old Norse word & were in the land of the Gaels, Picts & Vikings.  So many cultures converged on this northern point of the Isles. 

We arrived at our hotel in Tongue late afternoon & were rewarded with a lovely room with a view. Some places you could easily spend a few nights in. The food was really good & the hotel goes the extra mile for guests & provide a flask of milk for the room alongside their generous tea / coffee / hot chocolate & biscuit offerings. Nice to see that they are removing as much single use plastics as they can (the milk containers with the tiny bit of milk) 

We looked at our maps & guide books to plan the next days adventures along the route - so much to see & do that it is worth having an idea of what to expect.  


From the hotel patio, Varrich castle can be seen on the hillside opposite, it was once the ancient seat of the Clan Mackay, thought to be 1000 years old. The current remains we built on top of an old Nordic Fort. However,  we decided not to do the 40 min each way walk as there are so many fantastic castles in Scotland & we could not visit them all. . We took a photo from the hotel only. 

The sea air guarantees a good nights sleep & we could hear rain against the windows in the night. What a treat to see the northern most headland of Scotland, somewhere we have not been to before. I hope you are enjoying the trip, 

Dee

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